| Planning
Hiretech products combine to bring you a
complete floor sanding and finishing system for all types
of wooden floors. It’s easy to get professional results
with the best floor sanders and finishes available.
Plan ahead, you will need to have enough
free time to sand and finish your floor. The time needed will
depend upon the size and condition of the floor. As a rough
guide a 6m x 6m (20’ x 20’) solid hard wood floor
in average to good condition that is sanded back to new wood
will take about 3 days to sand and finish. Remember to contact
your local hire shop and reserve the sanding equipment you
need to hire in advance. Also choose the Hiretech PFF Floor
Finish for your floor and make sure your hire shop has adequate
stock to meet your needs.
Tools
You will need some or all of the following
tools and accessories to help you sand and finish your floor.
Hammer, nail punch, personal protection equipment including
dust respirator, eye protection, ear protection and gloves.
Also masking tape, carpenters pencil, paint tray or bucket,
applicators, brushes and tack rags. If you need any other
tools, plan ahead and make sure you have all you need to prepare,
sand and finish your floor.
Preparation
Remove all furnishings and drapes from the
room. Tape up cupboards and doors to seal against dust. Remove
old floor coverings and loose nails, staples, screws and any
other unwanted fixings. Fix loose or broken boards and parquet.
Take care to match any replacement pieces with the existing
floor. Small gaps and holes can be filled before the last
part of the sanding operation. Take care to get a good match
with the surrounding wood. Fillers will take up finishes and
stains differently to the wood. If in doubt always test making
sure the filler is compatible with the stains and finish you
intend to use. Larger gaps between boards can be filled with
a fillet of matching wood. Glue the edges of the fillet and
tap into place then plane down level with the floor surface.
Remove heavy wax, grease and dirt deposits
by hand. Punch down all exposed nails and any other hardware
below the floor surface. Repeat as necessary as you sand the
floor, if nail heads become exposed. Sweep the floor clean
immediately before sanding.

Warning - sanding exposed nails can
produce sparks creating a fire hazard in the sander dust bag,
tear abrasive sheets and discs and damage the floor sander.
Floor
Sanding Technique
Drum Floor Sander
Load the sander with abrasive making sure
that it is skin tight around the drum. Loose sheets will tear.
Place the sander on the right hand wall (unless you are making
an angled cut on uneven floors) with about two thirds of the
floor in front of you. Start the sander with the drum off
the floor then walk forward at an even pace and ease the drum
to the floor. As you near the end of the pass, gradually raise
the drum off the floor. Practice before turning on the sander.
Warning - never bounce the sanding drum
on the floor or dwell in one place, as this will sand dips
and hollows in the floor
Cover the same path you made on the forward
cut by pulling the machine backwards. Ease the drum to the
floor as you begin the backward pass until you reach the original
starting point then lift the drum off the floor. Move the
sander to the left and overlap the first cut by about 7cm
(2¾”). Repeat the forward and backward passes
moving progressively to the left as you complete each forward
and backward pass. When two thirds of the floor is sanded,
turn the floor sander around and sand the remaining third
in the same way. Overlap the one-third area by 0.6m to 0.9m
(2’ to 3 ‘) with the first two-third area to blend
the two areas together.
Disc Floor Sander (Edger)
Load the abrasive disc making sure the retaining
bolt is tight. Start the edger with the disc off the floor
then lower the disc to the floor as you move the edger to
one side. Sand in the direction of the grain along the walls,
moving the edger from side to side. End sanding strokes should
be semicircular. Blend the edges into the area sanded by the
drum sander.
Orbital Floor Sander
Load the abrasive pad and sheet. Start the
sander, move immediately and sand in the direction of the
grain using the same technique as the drum floor sander. For
difficult to reach areas use the disc floor sander with a
fine grit abrasive, or sand by hand.
Tricks
of the Trade
- When sanding a floor always aim to remove
the minimum amount of wood. Use only as coarse an abrasive
as needed. Over sanding reduces the life of the floor and
dramatically increases the work needed to complete the job.
- Always test sand with a medium to fine
grit abrasive first. If this will remove old finish and
generally level the floor on the first cut, you do not have
to use the more aggressive coarse grit abrasives.
- If the floor is uneven, cupped or crowned
make sure there is no moisture problem.
- Make the first rough cut at 45o
to the direction of the flooring to obtain a basic level.
- For new floors or for floors in buildings
that have been left without heating always let the floor
acclimatise for 1 to 3 weeks to its normal moisture content
before sanding and finishing.
- Check the thickness of the floor before
sanding by removing a skirting board, baseboard, moulding
or heating register so you can measure the edge of the flooring.
This is very important for pre-finished and laminate floors.
- If the floor has a hollow or deep scratch,
make multiple passes forward and backwards across the area
starting the first pass at a 30o angle to the
hollow or scratch. Finish sanding in the direction of the
grain. Only use fine grit abrasive.
- Use a soft lead carpenter’s pencil
to mark exposed nails, excessive scratches, holes, etc.
- When changing from one abrasive grit
to the next, do not skip more than one intermediate grit.
Sanding Plank
or Strip Floors
Floors in good condition - when the floor
is in good condition - no uneven edges, cupping or crowning
of planks and strips - start sanding in the direction of the
planks or strips, with the wood grain. Start with a coarse
or medium grit abrasive. Complete the first cut with the drum
floor sander then sand up to the baseboards and door thresholds
with the edger, using medium grit abrasive, blending the edges
in with the main floor area. Sweep the floor. Using a medium
grit abrasive sand the main floor area with the drum sander
and then complete the floor with the edger using a fine grit
abrasive. Sweep the floor. Finish sanding the main floor area
with the drum floor sander using a fine grit abrasive.
Uneven floors - when the floor is uneven
sand diagonally at 45o across the room in both directions
using coarse grit abrasive. Only make one cut on both diagonals,
this will achieve a basic level. Now complete the floor as
for a level strip or plank floor. Use the same grit abrasive
as was used on the 45o cut for the first cut parallel to the
planks or strips.
Floors with an existing finish - when refinishing
a floor remove as little of the existing surface as possible.
If only a light sanding is required to prepare the floor for
refinishing use the orbital floor sander. If the floor is
badly marked and scratched and has to be sanded back to new
wood it may be necessary to use a coarse open coat abrasive
to remove the old finish. These abrasives will not clog with
the old finish but take care, as they are very aggressive.
Always try a medium grit paper first, particularly on a diagonal
cut. If 90% of the old finish is removed and the floor is
generally levelled, you do not need to use coarse grit abrasive.
Sanding
Veneered, Laminated and Thinner Floors
Use the orbital floor sander for veneered
and laminated floors or thinner floors that may have been
subject to repeated sanding. The orbital sander will remove
old surface finishes and prepare the floor for refinishing.
Sand the floor using the same method as a strip, plank, or
parquet floor. If the floor has deeper scratches or marks
these should be sanded out by hand and blended in with the
main floor.
Sanding Parquet
and Block Floors
The grain of the wood will run in a number
of directions so sand the floor in the direction of the main
source of natural light in the room. If there is no source
of natural light sand in the direction of the longest side
of the room or, if the room is square, in the direction the
furniture is laid out and how people normally use the room.
This technique will help mask any imperfections in the floor.
Complete the sanding operation as detailed for plank or strip
floors.
Safety
- Follow all instructions carefully; always
wear personal protection equipment as directed.
- Make sure the room is well ventilated
at all times.
- Never smoke when sanding or finishing
a floor.
- Keep power cables clear of the floor
sanders at all times.
- Take care to dispose of sawdust safely,
never throw sawdust into a fire or incinerator.
- Never leave a floor sander unattended
with sawdust in the dust bag. Mixtures of sawdust and old
finishes are subject to spontaneous combustion.
Finishing
Finishing a wooden floor is a very satisfying
and rewarding job. As with sanding its important to be well
prepared and to make sure you have ample time to complete
the job. This includes leaving the floor for the right amount
of time before using it – after all your hard work you
don’t want to scratch and mark the floor by using it
too soon.
Hiretech Permanent Floor Finish (PFF) is
a range of modern, environmentally friendly wood lacquers
for all types of wooden floors and interior wood surfaces.
Traditional qualities blended with modern technology make
PFF the ideal choice for the professional and homeowner. Take
time to choose the right PFF for your floor and remember to
always follow the instructions carefully.
Finish
Preparation
Allow ample time to apply the finish, it’s
best to start at the beginning of the day to give yourself
time to apply the number of coats of PFF required all in one
day. If the area to be finished cannot be completed in one
day you will need to lightly sand the floor before applying
another coat the next day.
Clean up the whole room taking care to
vacuum up dust from window frames, skirting boards, baseboards,
doorframes etc. It’s a good idea to vacuum several times
to allow any airborne dust to settle so the room is as clean
as possible.
Inspect the floor carefully. Spot fill missed cracks and nail
holes. Allow the filler to dry hard, then hand sand or use
a small palm sander with the same grit as final machine sanding.
Now remove all traces of dust from the floor
by first vacuuming and then wiping over with a Hiretech Tack
Rag. Only a tack rag will remove all the dust from the grain
of the wood for a perfect finish.
PFF Application
Guide
Stain
Application
Always test the compatibility of the stain
with the floor finish you are going to use. Stains may affect
the drying and adhesion of the floor finish. Carefully follow
the stain application instructions and allow to dry thoroughly
before applying the floor finish.
Finish
Application
Applying PFF is easy; a Hiretech Floor
Finish Brush will give the best results and maximize film
build. Always test with the number of coats required before
full application.
Carefully follow the detailed instructions
included on each pack of PFF. On softwoods with water based
finishes the first coat will tend to raise the grain of the
wood making your nice smooth floor feel rough! This is normal
- simply sand between coats of finish using the HTF Orbital
Floor Sander with an abrasive pad for a perfect result.
Always recoat within the time specified
in the PFF instructions. If this is not possible, lightly
sand between coats to ensure perfect adhesion between each
coat of finish.
Plan your application so you can exit the
room, starting in a corner. Generally you will work with the
grain of the wood. Work at a steady pace and do not use too
many brush strokes as this will reduce film build and leave
brush marks. Let the PFF flow naturally across the floor and
find its own level.
Tricks
of the Trade - Finishing
- Use a Hiretech Tack Rag to remove fine
dust from the grain of the wood that vacuuming alone will
not collect.
- Always use a fine white bristle brush,
if a stray bristle falls out and is not seen it will not
show up as much as a black bristle.
- If you are finishing your floor with
a gloss finish apply a satin or matt finish as the first
coat. This will act as a tell tail because when it becomes
exposed it can be easily seen and you know it’s time
to refinish the floor. Use a gloss finish for the first
coat when the final finish is satin or matt.
- Do not over brush, allow the PFF to
flow and find its natural level. This will maximize film
build and add life to your floor.
- Always refinish your floor before it
is worn through to the wood. If the wood becomes exposed
the whole floor will have to be re-sanded to new wood.
Maintenance
Floors are the hardest wearing surfaces
in the home and work place. Take time to protect and care
for your floor to help maintain its beauty and prolong its
life.
The first and best line of defence for
any wooden floor is barrier matting. Matting removes grit
and other solids from footwear. Ideally always remove outdoor
footwear and avoid high heel shoes, heavy work boots and soles
with nails and steel tips. Use mats and rugs in areas of high
traffic.
Sweep and vacuum regularly followed by
a damp mop. PFF does not need polishing to keep its good looks
- just keep it clean.
Overtime it’s natural for floors to
dull down, pick-up scratches and marks. Day to day scuff marks
can be removed using a non-abrasive cream cleaner. Refinish
your floor before it becomes too worn. The floor finish is
designed to provide a wear layer for your floor as well as
enhancing the beauty of the wood.
Helpline
For help and information on sanding and
finishing your floor or other wood surfaces call or email
us. Click here
for contact information and our email form.
Abrasive
Paper Guide
HT8 Floor Sander and HT7 Disc
Floor Sander (Edger)
|
|
Application
and Floor Type |
| Grit
24 Open Coat
(Coarse non-clogging) |
For
removing surface coatings from old floors such as varnish,
stains and wax polishes. For the rapid sanding and removal
of scratches and marks. Sanding level the joints of
sub-flooring like particle board and masonite. |
| Grit
24
(Coarse) |
For
the rapid sanding and removal of scratches and marks.
Sanding level the joints of sub-flooring like particle
board and masonite. |
| Grit
40 Open Coat (Coarse/Medium) |
For
removing surface coatings from old floors such as varnish,
stains and wax polishes. For the rapid sanding and removal
of scratches and light marks. Sanding level the joints
of sub-flooring like particle board and masonite. |
| Grit
80
(Medium) |
For
first sanding of new level wood floors. First sanding
after sanding with a drum sander. |
| Grit
100
(Medium/Fine) |
Intermediate sanding of all types
of wood floor.
|
|
Grit 120
(Fine) |
For final sanding of all types
of wood floor. First sanding of cork or composition
floors. For sanding between coats of solvent based
and 2 pack varnishes and lacquers.
|
HTF Floor Sander
|
Abrasive Paper Guide |
Application
and Floor Type |
Abrasive Sheet 40G
Open Coat
(Coarse)
|
For
the rapid removal of stock and where a deep cut is required.
Use on solid raw wood floors. Not recommended for use
on factory finished or laminate flooring systems. |
| Abrasive
Sheet 60G
Open Coat (Coarse/Medium)
|
In
progression from 40 grade to first sanding on smooth
surfaces requiring less stock removal. Removal of stains
and old finish from the sub surface of the floor after
stripping of surface coatings with 80-grade (medium)
abrasive. Use on solid raw wood floors, and floors where
an existing stain or finish is to be completely removed
from the wood prior to new finish being applied. |
| Grit
80
(Medium) |
Medium
stock removal. Rapid removal of surface coatings and
finishes. Suitable for all floor types, however, care
should be taken on factory pre-finished floors where
the integrity of seals and stains should be maintained. |
| Grit
120
( Fine ) |
Light
stock removal and where only a minor dimensional change
is required in the floor surface. First sanding of floors
that require re-finishing without the removal of old
surface coatings and where the integrity of seals and
stains must be maintained. |
| |
Negligible stock removal prior
to application of finish. Suitable for all floor types.
|
Abrasive Pad 280G
(Finishing)
and Backing Pad
|
Preparation for high quality finished
surface. Suitable for all floor types. Use to sand
between coats of finish especially water based stains
and varnishes.
Flexible backing pad for
abrasive sheets.
|
DO NOT OVER-SAND USE ONLY AS HEAVY GRADE
ABRASIVE AS IT TAKES TO DO THE JOB. PROGRESS FROM FIRST GRADE
USED THROUGH FOLLOWING GRADES TO REMOVE ALL VISIBLE SANDING
MARKS. DO NOT MISS A GRADE.
Permanent Floor
Finish (PFF) Technical Guide
|
SPECIFICATION |
RESINCOTE
GOLD |
AQUACOTE
GOLD |
AQUACOTE |
| Type |
Two
component, resin based acid cure lacquer. |
Single component oil
based water-soluble lacquer in a polyurethane dispersion. |
Single component acrylic
based water-soluble lacquer in a polyurethane dispersion. |
| Coverage
Hardwood* |
Two
coats 6m²/litre |
Two
coats 5m²/litre |
Three
coats 4m²/litre |
| Coverage
Softwood* |
Three
coats 4m²/litre |
Three coats 3.3m²/litre |
Four coats 3m²/litre |
| Wear
Resistance |
High |
Medium
to high |
Medium |
| Resistance
to Solvents |
Very good resistance to common
solvents including alcohol, fats and most acids
|
Good resistance to alcohol
and common solvents. |
Medium resistance to
alcohol and common solvents. |
|
Application Method |
|
Brush,
lambs wool or synthetic applicator, roller. |
Brush,
lambs wool or synthetic applicator, roller, paint pad. |
| Recommended
Use.** |
New and existing wood
floors and interior woodwork, ideal for high traffic areas
such as halls, stairs and kitchens. Use on tables, work
surfaces, skirting boards and other hardwearing wood surfaces.
Not recommended for use on wood treated with wood preservatives. |
New and existing wood
floors and interior woodwork, ideal for medium to high
traffic areas such as halls, stairs and living rooms.
Suitable for refinishing most types of factory pre-finished
wood and laminate wood floors. Also use on doors, skirting
boards and other hardwearing wood surfaces. Do not use
in areas with a high moisture content such as bathrooms. |
New and existing wood
floors and interior woodwork, ideal for low to medium
traffic areas such as living rooms and bedrooms. Suitable
for refinishing most types of factory pre-finished wood
and laminate wood floors. Do not use in areas with a high
moisture content such as bathrooms. |
| Drying
Times |
Drying
times are approximate and are based on an ambient temperature
of 20ºC. A flow of air is preferable to a sealed
room. |
| Surface
Dry |
25
minutes |
45
minutes |
35
minutes |
| Hard
Dry |
1
to 2 hours |
1
to 2 hours |
1
to 2 hours |
| Light
Use |
6
hours |
6
hours |
6
hours |
| Fully
Cured |
7
days |
48
hours |
7
days |
| Maintenance |
Sweep or
vacuum regularly to remove grit and clean using
a damp mop. PFF does not need polishing. Scuff
marks may be removed using a non-abrasive cream
cleaner. Refinish floor before lacquer wears to
bare wood. |
| Cleaning
Up |
PFF
Brush Cleaner. |
Water |
Water |
| Flammability |
Highly
Flammable |
N/A |
N/A |
Volatile
Organic
Compounds (VOC) |
High
(25% to 50%) |
Low
(0.30% - 24.99%) |
Low
(0.30% - 24.99%) |
| Hiretech
Data Sheet No. |
010,
030 and 040 |
020 |
050 |
* Coverage rates are approximate and will
vary depending on condition and type of wood.
** Read instructions on pack and always test before full application.
|